On August 12th, members of the NWMTCC replaced 15 anchor setups at the main area of Kila Crags southwest of Kalispell. The area is becoming more popular every season, and was way overdue for upgraded hardware. Kila is known for having somewhat chossy rock, and has historically been a bolting free-for-all regarding hardware and standards.
Seven volunteers, including Coalition board members Marc Venery and Joel Handley, rallied with hammer drills to replace the old anchor bolts with burly 1/2″ stainless steel expansion bolts and hangers. Chains and rappel rings were added, four mussy hooks were installed, and backup anchors were also replaced. They did what they could to remove the old hardware. Venery, a very established local route setter, commented that some of the old bolts came out disturbingly easily. Some bolts that were removed were just regular hardware store bolts (non-expansion or wedge) and held in place with epoxy. While they had strong shear strength, their ability to hold an outward pull was dubious.
That being said, please be extremely cautious leading routes at Kila! Many of the original bolts were put in by excited amateurs with very little installation experience. The Coalition hopes to replace the lead bolts sometime in the near future. Also, please do not top-rope on the mussy hooks! They are for lowering only.
We thank all who volunteered their time to replace the bolts, as well as the local businesses who donated to the project. A big shout-out to Rocky Mountain Outfitter, Rock Climb Montana, Montana Academy and Summit Preparatory School.
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