LOCAL CLIMBING AREAS
Glacier National Park
Glacier National Park is home to over 234 summits, most being accessed by non-technical scrambling routes. Though unpopular, technical climbs exists throughout the park but aren’t as favorable due to the loose and hard-to-protect nature of the rock.
CClimbing is inherently dangerous. Rescue is not guaranteed. Be prepared to self-rescue. Your safety and tracking is your responsibility.
Glacier National Park is known for its loose rock, expansive views, and endless scrambling. Though less popular, the steep technical climbing in the park is abundant and readily available as well. Some of the largest faces in the continental United States can be found within the park boundaries. The sedimentary rock found in Glacier varies from shale to limestone and is consistently difficult to protect due to its loose nature.
Glacier’s scrambling grading is a broad spectrum and varies on a scale from 1-5. Class 1 & 2 scrambles are typically easy off-trail routes, while class 3, 4, and 5 are more hands-on and exposed. For example, a class 3 scramble can be easy climbing, but with exposed sections that can have moves of 4th and 5th class with dire consequences. Ropes aren’t typically used on scrambles, but consequential terrain can be found on many class 3-5 routes.
Glacier Park is a protected wilderness area and should be treated with the utmost respect. Leave No Trace principles should be followed at all times while climbing in Glacier. NPS guidelines should also be followed at all times. Permits aren’t required for climbing, but are required for overnight camping and can be purchased in West Glacier, St Mary’s, Two Medicine, and the North Fork. NPS Permit Page
The technical climbing in Glacier Park comes with a great amount of responsibility. Rescues in the park on technical terrain are not guaranteed, and climbers should always depend on self-rescue when climbing in the Park.
Winter climbing in Glacier is incredibly difficult and requires winter mountaineering skills and a thorough grasp of avalanche safety. Winter camping permits can be received by calling or emailing the GNP Backcountry Office.
To climb safely in Glacier, the NPS recommends:
• Carrying the Ten Essentials as well as proper safety equipment for the terrain. And know how to use it.
Wear a helmet. Know that your trip will take longer than expected. Research the route and conditions. Leave a detailed plan with someone not climbing. Start with smaller climbs and know your abilities. Do not climb above trails. It is highly possible that rockfall could endanger other visitors. Don’t climb alone and never separate from your party. Expect snow, travel and extreme weather throughout all months of the year. Follow all other safe hiking recommendations from Glacier National Park.
Glacier’s technical climbing routes can be found in J. Gordon Edwards: A Climber’s Guide to Glacier National Park, Ron Brunckhorst’s Select Alpine Climbs to Montana, and as select routes on Mountain Project
Park Superintendent Compendium
The following areas are closed, as posted, to all of-trail travel for the protection of revegetation projects, existing resident vegetation and seasonal habitat for congregating bighorn sheep and mountain goats: 1) The Logan Pass area, which consists of all areas within the following exterior boundaries: Oberlin Peak climber trail, from the trailhead, to Oberlin Peak; Oberlin Peak to Clements Peak; Clements Peak, along Clements Ridge, to the first switchback on the Hidden Lake Trail; first switch back on the Hidden Lake Trail, along the first bench above Hidden Lake, to Reynolds Pass; Reynolds Pass, along the southern edge of the Hanging Garden area, to the cliff wall above the Reynolds Creek valley; and bound by the remainder of the cliff wall, above Reynolds Creek valley, and Going-to-the-Sun Road.
